Michoacan

Being up in the highlands of Mexico has been an entirely different experience. Leaving from Colima we climbed up into the mountains to Matzamitla. A beautiful town very different from any of the beach towns we had been to, this was a self-sufficient town up in the pines. It was much colder and there were not a lot of gringos as we could tell from driving around. We stayed in a grassy parking area in town across from a tienda and restaurant. We slept well all snuggled into our sleeping bag, thank goodness we brought it. In the morning, Ozzie walked next door to the store and asked if they had a public bathroom. The owner, an older woman, politely said no. About 15 minutes later, she walked over to our truck and offered her private bath and oh yes would you like a shower as well? She did not know that Ozzie was traveling with his wife. Of course I would like a shower I said. It was so very kind of her and she would not take any money for the use of her bathroom. When I left, I thanked her and she said if we needed anything else to be sure to come back. This is the kind of generosity that we have encountered so far.

Next, we wound through the state of Michoacan, the place I have wanted to see since the beginning of this trip. Even higher up in the mountains still, we drove through several small villages. The women all wore brightly colored long skirts, heeled shoes, no socks, and a beautiful wrap around shawl. They could be seen carrying babies, groceries, wood, and other things with this shawl. These villages were mostly inhabited by the Perupecha indigenous people. The particular villages we drove through were very poor. Small shacks, make shift housing, garbage along much of the road, much like the baja. Women washing clothes by hand, cooking outside, men working in the fields, children running around playing in the street. It definitely felt different than anywhere we had been thus far. No one smiled as we drove through, we often met unwelcoming scowls instead. These scowls did turn to smiles when we offered a friendly wave.

We then ended up in Patzcuaro, the heart of Michoacan. Wow, what a beautiful city. We stayed in the truck right on the main square that was surrounded by colonial buildings and large trees with fountains in the center of the plaza. Since we were not paying for camping, we decided to go out for dinner. In another smaller square a block away, we found all of the taco stands and cheaper food that we had been looking for. We decided upon a chicken place that looked good. The plates they were serving were huge. We sat down at a table that was part of the preparation area and waited for our food, they were very busy. While we waited, I noticed the cook ladle a large spatula full of lard from a nearby five gallon bucket. Yikes. Then a small boy about five years or so tapped me on the shoulder. He was wearing a shirt with Mickey mouse on it and the word “Mickey” printed along the top. I turned around and he forcefully stuck his hand out and said, “Money” in English. I was a little startled by his brazenness and I replied, “No tengo” (I don’t have any) Obviously, he was prepared for this answer an he replied a little too knowingly and quickly “Si, tu tienes” (Yes you do) with a cute little smile. Yikes again. I chose to ignore instead and he went away. After dinner, we did find him and give him our leftover chicken, which he gladly accepted without hesitation.
We were a little cold up in the mountains:) We might have to head back to the beach soon to warm up again.


Adios,
Lyndi and Ozzie